The Complete Visen Beginner’s Guide to Factions Gameplay and Raiding

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Meme Lord
The Complete Visen Beginner’s Guide to Factions Gameplay and Raiding

**Due to the length of this guide it is highly recommended you first browse the Table of Contents to help you find the sections you may desire to read, and that you then use the “CTRL + F” command to help you quickly traverse the guide to reach that location.**

Table of Contents:
Faction Server Commands
  • Commands
Creating Your First Faction
Important Concepts
  • Overclaiming
  • Using the Map Command
  • Faction Relations
  • Using the Permissions Command
Taking the Next Steps
Raiding and Cannoning
  • Introduction
  • Mindset
  • Entities
  • Hybriding
  • Sand Stacking
Defensive Structures
  • Trenches and Slabs
  • Sand Walls
Filtration Walls
  • Anti-Hybrid (Honeycomb) Walls
  • Pancake Walls
  • Triple Filters
  • Cuts (45s)
The Leinadarcher
  • Overview
  • Barrel
  • Scatter
  • Propulsion
  • Booster
  • Hammer + Slab-Busting Concept
  • Re-Aligner
  • Quick-Pulse
  • Guider
  • Sand-Stacker
  • Conclusion
Advanced Cannoning
  • Reversing
  • Sand-Plate Technology
  • One-Shot Cannons
  • Left/Right Shooting (Wraps and Pillar Defenses)
  • Floating Barrel Cannons:
  • Nukers
  • Auto and Semi-automatic cannons
  • Adjustable X/Y/Z Barrel Cannons
  • Mid Air Cannons
  • Cannon Boxes
  • Defensive Structures: Images
  • Cannon Components: Images
Parting Words
  • Conclusion


Being successful on a factions server first means knowing what success looks like. In many cases, you will have to define this for yourself. You may want to be the best PvPing faction. You may want to be feared because of your cannoning ability. Perhaps you’re interested in being able to simply buy your way to the destruction of your enemies at the hands of other factions by being the richest faction on the realm! Whatever your aspirations, knowledge will be a must. Knowledge is power. You’ll beat your opponents in PvP because you’ve studied and practiced your strafe more and honed your potting technique better than your opponent did. You’ll be more successful in raiding because you’ve got better tech, and you know more about using it. You’ll be the richest on the server because you ran the calculations and set up the most efficient grinder or farm system. Taking the time to learn, to plan, and to strategize is essential to being successful on a factions server. That’s where this guide comes in. While I won’t promise you’ll be ready to take over the F-Top of a realm by the time you’re finished reading, I can promise you’ll be at least ready to make a name for yourself.

Faction Server Commands

For the sake of saving time and space this guide will assume you already know the basics of the game and will focus rather on the additions made to the game by the factions plugin. The factions Plugin allows the use of the /f command, representing of course “factions”. This command allows the creation and customization of groups or clans of like-minded people working together towards a common goal (success). This clan, or “faction”, may claim land, set friendly/hostile relations with other factions, and claim land of the world for their own through the use of various /f (argument here) commands. To give the beginners an idea of some of these commands I will begin this guide by listing the commands available to you and their functions below. NOTE: The majority of the below information is available in-game at any time through the use of the /f help (page number(1,2,3, etc)) command.


Using the: “/f” command will open within your chat box the first of five pages of “help”, detailing all the commands available to you via the factions Plugin. (I will not list commands that are not enabled/usable on Desteria) Below is a list of all factions commands, and their functions.

  • /f help (pages 1-10) : Brings up the “help” page, as detailed in this guide, showing all usable commands and a brief summary explanation as to their arguments and purposes.
  • /f list (page) : Brings up a list of all factions on the server alongside some basic information about them.
  • /f who (faction name) : Will display information on the designated faction. If no argument is left in the “faction name” area information about your own faction will be displayed. On this page you are able to see the number of players in a faction, whom of them is currently online, the leader as well as officers, the amount of land claimed, as well as current/max power of the faction among other sets of information.
  • /f power (player name) : Will display the current power (-50 through 50) for a given listed player. If no argument is listed under the “player name” area, the user’s own current power will be displayed. Power is used as a rechargeable resource. A player’s power goes towards the sum power of a given faction he/she resides in.
  • /f join (faction name) : If a faction has toggled the “Open” option on, you will be able to automatically join a given faction without an invitation. By default, however, to join a faction you must have been invited by an online Officer/Coleader/Leader in said faction. Once you have been invited, you may use this command to become an official member of the faction you’ve been invited to.
  • /f leave : Will remove your user from your current faction of residence. Once you leave a faction, you may not rejoin it until a point at which you receive another invitation.
  • /f global : Toggles your ability to view Global Chat.
  • /f home : Will allow your player to teleport to the “home” location of your faction, if your faction has chosen to set one.
  • /f create (faction name) : Will allow the generation of a new faction; usable by any player without a faction as many times as possible without cost.
  • /f claim (radius) : Claims a 16x16 chunk of land for use by your, and only your faction. Will be discussed in increasing detail later in the guide. User may optionally append a radius argument to the command to claim a radius of chunks instead of a singular plot of land.
  • /f claimline (number of claims) : Allows a user to claim the designated number of chunks in a line in front of him/her.
  • /f sethome : Will set the destination for the teleportation that occurs with the use of the /f home command. Note: To remove the presence of a faction’s /f home once it has been set, the easiest method is to move the /f home into a randomly claimed area away from your base then, unclaim this chunk of land. Having done this, your faction will no longer have a home.
  • /f tag (new name) : Allows for the changing of your faction’s current name to another of your choice.
  • /f promote (player name) : Increases the ranking of a given user in the faction control hierarchy by one rank. Hierarchy: Member, Mod, Coleader.
  • /f demote (player name) : Will reduce the current position of a given player on the faction control hierarchy progression by one rank. Ex: A Mod will return to the status of Member.
  • /f desc (description) : Creates a description for your faction. Purely aesthetic, can be viewed with the use of the /f who (faction name) command.
  • /f perms : There will be a dedicated section for this command below.
  • /f invite (player name) : Sends a pending non-expirational invitation to a user of your choice whom may then use the /f join (faction name) command to join your faction.
  • /f deinvite (player name) : Removes a pending-status invitation from a player that has received an invite to your faction. Upon usage of this command, they will lose the ability to join your faction.
  • /f kick (player name) : Will forcefully remove a player from the faction without their consent.
  • /f open : Toggles the open/invitational policy of your faction. By default, all factions require an invite for a new member to join. Use of this command to toggle off this default, however, results in any user without a faction being able to join your faction through the use of /f join (your faction name).
  • /f autoclaim : Will toggle a feature allowing your player to automatically claim any chunk he/she walks into for your faction upon entering it, without needing to use /f claim. This feature is togglable with the re-use of the command.
  • /f unclaim : Unclaims the 16x16 chunk of land your player is currently in if it belongs to your faction.
  • /f unclaimall : Unclaims all land currently owned by your faction.
  • /f access (p, f (standing for player or faction respectively), or clear (to remove all access)) (player/faction name) : Gives specific permission to a given faction or Player of your description in the 16x16 chunk of land you currently reside in. They will gain the right to place and break in this land per your giving them access. Re-use of this command will remove the users’ access.
  • /f owner (player name) : Gives sole access to the chunk you’re in to the designated user. You can then compound this with /f access to create more complex permissions systems. Reuse this command on a user’s name to remove their ownership.
  • /f ownerlist : Lists all users who are owners of the chunk you’re in.
  • /f admin (player name) : Only usable by the current faction leader, will give Leadership of the faction from the current user to a designated player of your choosing.
  • /f title (player name) (desired title) : Aesthetic, allows for the setting of nicknames for users in your faction . These titles are displayed on the /f who (faction name) member list of a given faction .
  • /f map : Will be described in greater detail in a lower section.
  • /f disband : Allows for the destruction of your faction .
  • /f truce (faction name) : Sends a truce request to a faction of your choosing.
  • /f enemy (faction name) : Sets the current relation of your faction with another given faction of your choice to a hostile/enemy relation.
  • /f neutral (faction name) : Sets the current relation of your faction with another given faction of your choice to a neutral relation, unless you are enemied with them, in which case it is sent in request form.

Although it is of course not necessary to memorize the workings and syntax of all of the above commands, having at least an understanding of each of their functions and being aware of their availability for use is essential for maintaining a healthy and successful faction . The more you’re able to customize your faction and tailor its structure towards meeting the goals you’ve set for yourself the more successful you’ll be.

Creating your First Faction

Now having hopefully spent some time looking over the aforementioned commands, you’ve probably picked up the first important steps towards making your first faction . The first thing to do would be to make the faction itself using /f create (faction name). Yes, I would recommend making your own instead of joining someone else’s. Second, try and find at least one other user you’ll be creating your faction with. It’s good to have an Coleader or at least a Moderator working with you to help set up your first base. Once you’ve found said member, use /f invite (player name) and use /f promote (player name) if you feel you trust them enough to consider them as a Moderator or Coleader. (Note: Moderators and Coleaders have access to more faction commands than Members. Having now picked up at least one other member your faction will be able to claim up to 20 chunks of land (assuming you’re all at maximum power; this will be discussed in more detail later). Use as much of this power as you need to claim the land that will eventually become your base, however keep in mind, it is good to save at least some of your power to serve as a buffer should you or your faction members ever be killed. As a goal for yourself, try and always be aware of your land/power ratio. Having found land for your first base, use /f claim to claim a couple of chunks of the surrounding area and set to work on your first storage area for your items! From this point on your next major goals will be expansion of your faction , recruitment of more members, and beginning to work towards creating a steady source of income for your faction, and then beginning to potentially learn what it means to be an effective PvPer or cannoner. Good luck!

Important Concepts
  • Faction Power:
As described earlier, with the use of the factions plugin every player receives his/her own individual regenerating resource known as “power”. Power represents your user’s energy and/or resolve; it is your ability to fight and defend. Each time you are killed, you lose some power out of a maximum of fifty. Your power can drop to a minimum of negative fifty. You can check your own personal power at any time by using the /f power command, or check the power of any other player by using the /f power (player name) command. Note: When you are killed, and have lost “x” power out of fifty, you will automatically begin regenerating said-lost-power at a constant rate. (Note, if you’re killed again, this timer will reset) Just as a player can have a maximum of fifty power, a faction collectively can have a maximum power of 50 x (the number of members). This is because a faction maximum power is simply the sum value of the total potential power of each of it’s members. So, if a faction contains two users, the faction will have a maximum of 100 power. This is because each player holds 50, meaning together, the faction holds 100 maximum power. A faction can handle a maximum of 30 people, meaning it at max, a faction can hold 1500 power. Note, each time a given member of a faction is killed, they will lose some power. This means they will drop from their current power down towards their minimum of -50.

The importance of this mechanic is how power relates to a faction ability to claim land. A faction may claim land up to its total current amount of power. So, if a faction has 100 possible maximum power, but currently out of that 100 it has only had 50 power, which means the faction will be able to claim up to 50 16x16 chunks of land. Power in this context can be considered the number of resources your faction requires to protect the amount of land it holds. Just as your faction amount of power determines the amount of land you are able to claim, it also shows you the amount of power you must retain at all times to keep a hold over that land.

  • Overclaiming:
Overclaiming is a more advanced concept within the factions plugin but it is essential to understanding how to protect yourself and your faction from would-be raiders as well as to help you identify faction that may not even require the use of explosives. Overclaiming is the process by which one faction sets claim over the land of another faction taking control of it for themselves. Normally, this is not possible and only becomes possible under the specific circumstance in which the defending faction has a lesser current amount of power than it does land, in which circumstance, this defending faction has now become overclaimable. As discussed above, you may only claim up to the amount of power your faction currently has, however much that is. But, if you’ve already claimed up to 75 land, (say you have 100 max power, two users) and one of your faction members dies a handful of times that now means he/she may not be contributing their full 50 power. Your maximum 50 power plus his remaining 20, will only add up to 70 power. Your faction, however, still owns 75 lands. Your land will NOT unclaim if you fall below the necessary amount of power to protect it. However, instead, five chunks worth of your faction claimed land will be overclaimable by another faction. All they’d need to do would be to enter the outermost claims of your faction on any side and use the /f claim command in one of these chunks and their faction would take ownership of your faction’s previously controlled land. This is why overclaiming is such a powerful concept; it allows another faction to essentially completely bypass any physical defenses you would erect to protect yourself. If your power falls below the necessary threshold, regardless of your defenses your faction will fall to the enemy. It’s because of this often times factions make the decision early on to give themselves a protective buffer of sorts. The leadership of a given faction will intentionally leave a fourth or more of their faction’s land-potential left unclaimed so that if their power ever is lowered due to combat with an enemy faction they still have a fair amount of “safe” deaths before they must become cautious as to their lowering power. When you create your own faction, I would recommend you do the same in determining the amount of land you plan to claim. Having a larger buffer of land protection around your base is not always more valuable than having excess/expandable power.

  • Using the Map Command:
Having now learned about the importance of factions power and its effect on a given faction’s land, it’s important we talk about using the /f map command. Above we talked about using the /f claim command and “claiming land”. This specifically refers to the taking of control of a 16x16 chunk of land in the wilderness. The most common misconception about this process, however, is as to the borders of the land your faction actually acquires when you use the /f claim command. When you claim your 16x16 chunk, you do NOT actually claim 8 blocks out in front of you, to your left, right, and behind you. Instead, your faction takes control of whichever 16x16 chunk of the pre-spawned world you’re currently residing in. What this means, is that it is extremely important to plan your base out around the land you live in, and the chunks you’ve claimed, and build your base AFTER claiming rather than vice versa. Ideally your buildings will be in the center of your claims, as opposed to right on the edge where they’d be more easily attackable.

When planning your base, or raiding for that matter, it is of vital importance that you’re using the /f map command. What this interface does is generates a map of all of the nearby 16x16 chunks in your vicinity. Each 16x16 “chunk” of land is represented by a gray “-”. Also, in the corners of the pop-up box, you will see an “N”, “E”, “S”, and “W.” These represent the cardinal directions - North, East, South, and West. By paying attention to whichever of these four symbols is lit up in red on your map, you will be able to discern which direction you’re facing. For example: If “N” is lit red, you’re facing North. From that point, if you turned left, you’d be looking West. If you spun 180 degrees around from there, you’d be looking East, etc. This is valuable information because it allows you to give effective directions to your allies and faction members. Understanding this, you understand the range of vision that this map gives you, and hopefully, you can, therefore, see it’s worth. Also on this map, it will show your current claimed land, as well as any that your allies, truces, and enemies may have claimed. Your own land will show up in green, your truces land in pink, allies in purple, and enemies in red. Using this information you can plan the design of your base, look for locations far from any potential enemies (other factions), plan your raids upon the weakest sides of enemy bases, and coordinate creations of your base with potential allies. These are a few of the /f map command’s important uses, but there are many more. The focus of this section, however, is to illustrate the importance of using the /f map command to more efficiently and effectively plan both the defense of your own base and your vector of attack in the scenario you choose to go on the offensive against an enemy.

  • Faction Relations:
As the ranking official in your faction, you’ll gain the ability to set relations with other factions. In doing so, your available options are as follows: Neutral, Truced, Allied, or Enemied. Generically, these relations are relatively straightforward. Members of Truced or Allied factions cannot hit each other, whereas neutral and enemied faction members can. The only caveat to this rule comes into play if you’re standing in another faction’s territory. If you are currently in the territory of another faction, you will not be able to hit members of said-faction unless you set your faction relation with this defending faction to enemied. Neutral factions you have no relations with, for better or worse. Truces are factions you trust, however wouldn’t depend on. Allies are considered stronger truces; they’re factions you rely on more heavily. For each of your listed relations, you have a respective chat channel alongside that of your own faction. If you weren’t aware, you can access a faction-only chat with your members by using the /f c f command. To return to global chat after, use /f c p. (‘P’ standing for ‘Public’) Alongside these global and faction chat channels, as discussed above, you have a Truce, Ally, and Truce-Ally chat. Within Truce Chat, only factions set to the “Truced” relation with your own will be able to send/receive messages with you. The same goes for Ally chat, respectively. However with Truce-Ally chat, the combined channel, both your Truces and your Allies will be able to receive and respond to your sent messages. The last faction relation is “Enemied”. This means you have hostile relations with a given faction. Each of these specific faction relations has its own specific color as shown on the /f map. Neutral factions are gray or white, Truced factions are pink, Allied factions are purple, and enemied factions show up red. Note, all friendly relations that you set can be displayed via using /f who (faction name), or /f who to check your own faction’s relations. All Truces and Allies will be listed there in their respective categories for viewing. Based off the amount of people you would want to fight, and the amount of people you would want to have defend you in the instance your faction may come under attack, it will become important you have truces, allies, and minimal enemies to fight alongside and against you. Set each relation with caution, be aware those you choose to betray may hold grudges.

  • Using the Permissions Command:
An extremely important, albeit complicated aspect of running your own faction is understanding the available options you’re granted with the use of the /f perms command. This command stands for “permissions”. It allows for the adjust of the permissions of the different internal ranks and external relations of your faction. Through its use you’re able to adjust what any other given player having an interaction with your faction is allowed to do. To get a general overview of what the command does, you first need to understand it’s interface. Start by using the /f perm command. You’ll see a handful of icons pop up. First will be Member, then Moderator, Coleader, then Truce, Ally, Enemy and Neutral. By clicking into any of these tabs, you will see a set of permissions. I will list them alongside a brief description below.
  • Build: The ability to place blocks within your faction’s territory.
  • Destroy: The ability to break blocks within your faction’s territory.
  • Painbuild: Non-functional on our server at this time.
  • Door: Permission to open doors within faction-claimed-land.
  • Button: Permission to use buttons within faction-claimed-land.
  • Lever: Permission to use levers within faction-claimed-land.
  • Invite: Ability to send and redact invites to other users towards the end of allowing them to the faction.
  • Kick: Ability to kick other users from the faction.
  • Items: Ability to place items, ex: water buckets, inside faction land.
  • Sethome: Ability to use the /f sethome command for the faction.
  • Withdraw: Non-function on our server at this time.
  • Territory: Ability to claim or unclaim land for the faction.
  • Access: Ability to give another player or faction /f access to a 16x16 chunk of the faction’s land.
  • Promote: Ability to increase another faction member to the rank beneath the rank of the user running the command.
  • Set Warp: Ability to set faction warps that be accessed by users with the appropriate permissions.
  • Warp: Ability to use faction warps set by a user with the aforementioned permission.
  • Ban: Ban users from being able to join your faction.
  • Disband: Ability to destroy the user’s faction.
  • Container: Ability to access chests and other containers within faction land.

To manipulate the chart, you’ll right, left, or middle click (click your scroll wheel) to allow, deny, and default a given permission to the rank or relation you’re adjusting. Understanding the permissions of your faction is essential towards creating a healthy system of government in your faction and assessing the abilities of your allies truces and enemies. Get to know what you can and can’t do with this system and begin to think of how you can use it to your advantage.

Taking the Next Steps

Hopefully by this point you’ve got the general concept of factions through your head and at least have taken the beginning steps towards setting yourself up for success. If nothing else, you can bank on that fact you know the tools available to you for the future to create success for yourself. Moving on from the basics of the creating your own faction, we delved a bit into the importance of your relations with other factions, but in the following sections we’ll be focusing less on your relations with them and more specifically on your interactions with them. For the purposes of this guide we’ll mostly be looking at your interactions with neutral and enemy factions. In other words, raiding.

When beginning to get into the world of raiding you’ll quickly find there are two areas you will need to read up on. You’ll first need to learn how to defend yourself, and why these defenses are viable, and then how to penetrate these defenses should you decide you want to attack another faction that has chosen to employ them. Throughout the remainder of this guide I’ll be making it my goal to hopefully give you some ideas as to how you can customize your own base to make it as difficult to raid as possible, as well as how you can go about busting down the walls of whichever unlucky-faction finds itself on the barrel end of your first cannon.


Meme Lord
Raiding and Cannoning
  • Introduction:
When most players think about cannoning, they have one of two images in their head. The first player will be thinking about the 3x7~ cannon that has essentially a bucket of water in it, redstone along the sides, and two buttons. A simple, but not useless design. The second player, when visualizing cannons will set their sites to the stars. They’ll be picturing crazy designs with hundreds of dispensers. They’re thinking of cannons that perhaps have the ability to left/right alternate, with a hammer adjustment for reversing, or even a cannon that can adjust on the x/y/z access where it’s payload strikes! Whether by this point you know what any of this means, it’ll be my goal to at least give you an idea of what you could be making in terms of cannons by the end of this guide.

  • Mindset:
Before we can get into this section there are a number of sciences in Minecraft we need to understand, and more importantly, there are a couple of things we need to keep in mind when deciding to learn or taking part in cannoning. The first rule I’ll suggest you hold yourself to, and potentially the most valuable advice you can BE given when it comes to cannons, is to take the time to learn the cannons you’re using. Anyone can find a crazy design, replicate it, and enjoy “pressing the button”, but you need to understand what you’re doing. Just pressing the button does NOT make you a cannoneer. Even having a design you CAN use successfully to raid, does NOT make you a cannoneer. This is the most common misconception I come across. What makes you a cannoneer, is knowledge. Understanding. Versatility. Adaptability. What makes a cannoneer, is someone who can set up a cannon box, make whichever cannon is most appropriate for the situation, and then is someone who can continue to adapt his/her cannon to the circumstances that arise. Whether that be enemy players, an overhang you need to get around, water on the walls of your target, or an angling problem, a real cannoneer is someone who has the knowledge of their design rooted deeply enough to be able to do MORE than just click the button. A cannoneer is someone who uses every block of their design to its highest potential. Before going any further, I want to make clear I wouldn’t consider myself anywhere near being a “good” cannoneer; there are a handful of people who are. But, that doesn’t mean we shouldn’t push ourselves to improve as someday - maybe YOU will be THE cannoneer that’s spoke about, no longer the user looking to the person whom is.

  • Entities:
Keeping in mind what you read above, here’s where we’ll really start getting into things. Before you can start shooting TnT you first need to understand what is making your TnT fly. Before you can understand why your TnT is flying, you have to understand WHY TnT is the block of choice to fire out of a cannon (among other blocks, such as sand, etc), and believe it or not, there is more reasoning behind this decision than just it’s destructibility. The key behind why TnT is fireable from a cannon rests in the lit-version of TnT becoming what’s called an “entity”. Now this may or not be a new concept to you, but to give you some background info I’ll be quoting the Minecraft Wiki:

“Entities encompass all dynamic, moving objects throughout the Minecraft world.
All entities have these properties:
  • A position, velocity, and rotation (as according to ordinary Newtonian physics).
  • A specific volume they occupy, which is a 3-dimensional box with a fixed height and width .
  • Effects
Most entities can be pushed around by water currents.”

I’ve left out some of the characteristics that are listed on the page itself, but I’ve hit the major points that will be relevant for cannoning. Essentially, the difference between a block or any other object and an “entity” is its presence in the world. The difference is its ability to be acted upon by physics. To give another example that may help you understand this concept, picture a block of cobblestone alone in the air. Even though it has nothing to support it, and it’s alone in open air, it is not acted upon by gravity because it is not an entity. However, if you were to place a block of sand on top of this block of cobblestone and then break said-cobblestone from under the sand, the sand would then be acted upon by gravity and fall. This is because - when a block that is touching sand updates (“updating” refers to when a block is moved, destroyed, etc) it causes sand to essentially reassess its state. Immediately realizing it has nothing beneath it to reside on, it triggers code within Minecraft that dictates that a block of sand that COULD fall, WILL fall, and ONCE falling, becomes an entity. Hopefully that example helps. If it doesn't, disregard it, and we’ll get back to that concept later.

TnT works similarly. Normally, if you place TnT on the ground, it is not an entity. This is a common misconception. Placing a piece of TnT on the ground, and setting another piece off nearby will NOT fling the first piece but instead, it will merely trigger it for an explosion. This is because, TnT is only movable via propulsion once it has become an ENTITY. And in the case of TnT, it becomes an entity as soon as it has been lit. This is symbolized by the small bounce a piece of TnT makes once it has been lit. If you look closely you’ll be able to see this difference, there is a gray/white tint to TnT that has been lit and correspondingly is now an entity. This is how you know it is now susceptible to gravity and propulsion. Knowing this, you’ve just learned your first lesson about cannoning.

Overview: TnT by nature is NOT affected by gravity. To shoot TnT from a cannon, you must first transform it into an entity by lighting it. Only then will it be propulsable.

  • Hybriding:
Before moving into specific cannon designs, I’m going to explain the concept of a “hybrid” cannon, if you want to be any kind of successful cannoneer you’re going to need to know how to get through watered walls. Without using hybriding technology, this would be near if not outright impossible. Before understanding what hybriding is, however, you must understand the effect that water has on TnT. In comparison to the concept of an entity, water’s effect is relatively simple. It muffles explosions. Any piece of TnT that explodes in water will have no destructive effect to the blocks around it. What this means, is that by placing water around the walls of your base, you have found an extremely quick but effective method of defending your base against the majority of enemy cannoneers. Using just plain TnT, there is NO possible way to penetrate through a layer of water. It is not possible (on Desteria). So, naturally, there must be a way to penetrate through water defenses so you can breach bases defended in such a way. This ‘way’ is called hybriding.

The word hybrid is defined as: “a thing made by combining two different elements; a mixture.” Going off of this, we can assume that “Hybrid Cannoning” involves the mixture of two separate components. This is perfectly accurate. What a “Hybrid” cannon does, is calls for the fusion of two entities, TnT and Sand, into a single block. It is this combination-charge, and only this, that is capable of penetrating water-defended-walls. (Note: Gravel, Red Sand, and any other equivalent are perfectly substitutable for sand when raiding) The idea behind such a cannon is relatively abstract, but makes sense. Picture a small hole in the ground, one block deep, a square hole, of about 3 blocks long on each side. Now imagine that this small hole is filled with water. Each one of those (once) empty 1x1x1 areas dug out of the ground were filled up by nothing(air), before adding the water. Now, even though the water doesn’t VISUALLY take up the entirety of the block space, for our purposes, and that of cannoning you must understand that water DOES occupy that 1x1x1 space in replacement of (previously) stone, and then air. Now, looking at your water pool, place a block of sand in the middle of your small pool. Notice how that one 1x1x1 space is now no longer taken up by stone, no longer taken up by air, or water, but instead by sand. What this means, is that in this 1x1x1 area, the properties of stone, air, nor water block currently apply. Only that of the sand block now applies in that area, due to its current residence there. What this means, is that this 1x1x1 space is susceptible to TnT explosions, as the one block of stone (ground) underneath where the sand sits, no longer has the protection of water above it.

You may ask, “Well, that’s interesting, but why does it matter that the block underneath the sand has no resistance to TnT - that 1x1x1 space is occupied by Sand, not TnT.” This is a perfectly logical question, and the response is the key to Hybrid Cannoning. This is where it becomes important you understand how entities work. Understand that while a block updates to potentially become an entity (falling sand, lit TnT) in comparison to its previous form (still sand, non-lit-TnT) it both gains, and loses old characteristics. In the case of TnT, it gains the ability to explode after a set delay. In the case of sand, it gains the effects of gravity upon it. (This is a poor example, as any entity will be affected by gravity, however you understand my intention I hope) However, sand, when changing into it’s entity (falling) form, RETAINS its placeholding of that 1x1x1 area. The idea of hybrid cannoning correspondingly is that you shoot a lit piece of TnT out of a cannon INSIDE of a sand block, and upon that sand block landing and re-becoming a full block, the lit TnT entity is still inside it. Now, with the water removed from the 1x1x1 block the TnT is free to explode inside the sand that it resides within, and it’s explosion is successfully able to penetrate the previously water-defended surface. I’ll explain this in more detail below.

When both sand and TnT become entities, they each lose their physical form. Players and other objects are now able to pass through them and rest inside them. What this means, is that you can essentially place two entities inside each other. To example this in a simple way, light two pieces of TnT on top of each other. Notice how even though they at one point each took up 1x1x1 block of space, and they needed that space to exist independently of each other, now they’re able to sit within each other during the time up to their explosion. Sand works the same way. And this is the key to a Hybrid Cannon. If you’re able to apply the same amount of propulsion to both a falling block of sand, and a lit piece of TnT that are inside each other they will both be affected by gravity (they’re both entities), and they’ll both be moved by the propulsion explosion allowing you to fire them out of the barrel of a cannon. Then, once arriving at their target location, they’ll fall to the ground inside of each other, as they’re both entities, and then would rest for a short period of time before the TnT explodes inside the sand at the target location penetrating whatever water defenses may be in place.

  • Sand Stacking:
Cannoning isn’t unfortunately as simple as shooting a hybrid charge at a defended wall, though. Unless you’re using an exceedingly advanced design in the form of a mid-air cannon, you’re going need to make a backboard for yourself to shoot at and land your hybrid charge on. If you understood the previous section, you hopefully understood that it is impossible to break through a watered wall without having your hybrid charge successfully go off is once it has landed and the two (sand and TnT) entities have settled inside of each other (as described in our small water puddle example). So, what this means, is that the TnT and Sand must land before you can actually see the effect of a Hybrid Charge (water penetration). What you have hopefully concluded by now is that because of this, you won’t be able to effectively plan the Y coordinate (altitude) at which upon the wall you’ll be actually hitting without a little more work. Assuming you’ve given your shot-TnT the maximum possible amount of delay, it (and the sand) will hit the wall, and fall. Meaning, the actual explosion that destroys that wall will happen at the base of the wall, OR wherever the TnT/Sand combination’s fall is stopped. What this means, is that if you want to destroy a certain height-location on an enemy base you’ll need a way to somehow raise a platform, a plateau, or ledge that you can essentially lob your Hybrid Charge on top of and then have rest there so it explodes at the desired altitude.

There is a method of doing this, and it is commonly referred to as “Sand Stacking”. As discussed previously, falling sand is considered an entity and gains the ability to be acted upon by gravity. This means we can fire it out of a cannon. Going forward with this idea, there is no reason why we couldn’t fire MORE than one piece of sand. The benefit of this being, say we were to fire 20 pieces of sand, they would be flying, “falling”, entities in the air and they would then hit their target wall, fall, land, and stack back up on top of each other as blocks just as normal falling sand would once it reaches its destination point (beneath it). Using this mechanic, we can continually fire sand at the wall we desire to hit, until we’ve raised a vertical pillar of sand to the height we wish to blow into the enemy base at. Now, the final step is merely to shoot your Hybrid Charge and land it (or have it fall onto) the top of your sand pillar and watch as it destroys the wall behind it. It is only through the use of this “Sand Stacking” technique that you’d be able to effectively dictate which Y coordinate you shoot your Hybrid Charge at (unless you use a Mid-Air cannon).

Defensive Structures
  • Trenches and Slabs:
Due to the prevalence of cannons and the continued evolution of them, in the modern cannoning community there are a plethora of cannons that can take down walls with a single shot. While they are bigger and bulkier, they are very difficult to stop. For the case of the more basic (but still effective) cannons we’ll be using, there are effective ways of defending your base. When thinking about how to stop a cannon, you must first understand how they work so you can develop a plan to counteract their mechanics. This, we’ve learned above. The first mechanic of cannoning we can counteract is Sand Stacking. If you can’t stack sand, you can’t effectively Hybrid. If you can’t effectively Hybrid, you’ll never break water. If you can’t breach a watered wall on a base, you’ll never be able to get inside. So, as you can tell, you only need to disrupt one piece of the cannoning puzzle - and the entire charade comes crumbling down.

The most effective way to stop the process of Sand Stacking is to use Slabs. In Minecraft, blocks must be situated fully on top of one another, a piece of dirt cannot be at rest (as a block) half-way into another piece, it must rest fully in it’s own 1x1x1 area. So, if you were to drop a piece of sand onto a slab, or another other resemblant non-full-block, you would notice that upon the touching of the falling sand block and the stationary slab the sand will be broken. This is the key to defending against the stacking of sand at your base. Put a row of slabs (potentially multiple layers) directly on the block outside your wall, that way, when using the wall as a backboard the raiders’ falling sand will fall onto your slab and be destroyed. Without being able to stack sand, they cannot make a pillar, and cannon Hybrid. This means, against at least the most basic cannons, your base will be safe.

To further this concept, we can make the lives of cannoneers even harder with an even more simple concept. Let’s for this example say that you have a base resting in the air. This defense will have its usefulness scaling proportionally with the raising Y value that your base reside at. In other words, the higher your base, in this case, the safer. This is because for every “Y level” your base is higher in the air, that’s one more block of sand the enemy will have to stack against EVERY one of your walls before being able to hybrid it. So, the higher you are up, the longer it will take them to raid you. The second simple type of defense I’ll be referring to, is called a “Trench”. It’s a very simple concept. Essentially, you dig out the one block area outlining your walls all the way down to bedrock.This means the aggressor would not only have to shoot from ground level up into the sky, but now they’ll also be forced to stack from bedrock up to ground level, and then from there, continue 150-200~ more blocks up into the airto reach your base. And, they’ll have to do this for every wall you have. The finishing touches would be the addition of slabs to the bottom of your trenches, and having done so, you make it a massive pain to stack sand against your walls (to hybrid them) as the more basic cannons can only stack 16-20 sand at max. Now, keep in mind, there certainly is technology out there that allows you to stack 250+ sand per shot, alongside destroying your slabs and even hybriding on top of that stack in a single shot, but not every cannoneer will be capable of mastering that technology.

  • Sand Walls:
Another very simple type of wall would be the “Sand Wall” design. Though this isn’t always the most effective design for bases that reside at a higher altitude, if you choose to make your base at bedrock or any lower altitude these walls may come in handy for you. The concept of a Sand wall rests in its ability to automatically regenerate itself when it is damaged. Say you have an entire wall of sand up to sky limit from bedrock. Regardless of where the enemy will be shooting at, every time they destroy a portion of your wall, the upper portion of the wall will fall downwards replacing the damage. Meaning, if you look to destroy something near bedrock, you will have to shoot through 250~ blocks of sand before being able to move past the wall. If you have a higher-up base, obviously you won’t have to shoot through as much to reach it, as the sand will only have to fall a lesser distance before your base is exposed. Knowing this, choosing to, or not to build sand walls may either be a good or poor idea for your base. Ensure you make the informed decision.

Filtration Walls

While creating trenches for your base is a must, and will definitely help you, there is naturally a cannon mechanic that can override your defenses and eventually destroy them. No base is impenetrable. Rather, these defenses I’ve outlined serve as counter measures to either outright deter users with not enough knowledge of the game from raiding you, or at least increase the time it’ll take for a more experienced cannoner to penetrate your base. Base defense is all about making the inevitable breach of your base take as long as possible, giving you the most chance to get online and stop the aggressors, and when cannoning, have your mindset be based around penetrating your opponent's defenses in the most timely and resource efficient manner possible. If your trenches and slabs are effectively removed from play or bypassed, you’ll have to rely now solely on your walls. Earlier in the Sand Stacking section, I described the importance of having a backboard for your sand/TnT entities to hit and bounce off of. The next type of defense will abuse this weakness of of most cannons.

Flat defensive walls mean little, as they can be easily used as a backboard. However, there are ways to generate different types of walls that can be much more of a pain to cannon. Some examples of these types of walls are: “Anti-Hybrid Walls”, “Honeycomb Walls”, “Pancake Walls”, “Triple Filters”, and “Cuts”. (Note: You can find these concepts, and MANY more via research on the internet. These will just be some basic designs).

  • Anti-Hybrid (Honeycomb) Walls:
The first type of defense we’ll be talking about are Anti-Hybrid walls. These work rather simply, but sound more complicated than they actually are. An effective set of Anti-Hybrid walls will come in sets of two. You’ll need two full walls to maximize their effectiveness. When building them, you’d first need to choose two blocks with varying blast resistance (number of explosions they can handle before breaking). Usually the choice will come to Obsidian and Endstone, as they’re the most blast resistant (on Desteria). The idea is, you place a block of Obsidian, and another on top of it. Next, in front of this two-high pillar, you repeat the process with Endstone. Then Obsidian. Then Endstone, etc. Having finished the first row you’ll now go back to standing on top the first two pieces of Obsidian you placed. On top of this Obsidian, place two Endstone and repeat the alternation process going forwards. Continue this for the entirety of the wall. Doing this, you should have an alternating pattern of two-high Obsidian and Endstone. Next, repeat this exact design on the wall in front of (or behind) this, except rather than starting with Obsidian you’ll start with Endstone (or vice versa). The result of this, are two alternating walls. You should never see lined up Obsidian and Endstone anywhere between the two.

The value of these walls are a result of the lack of knowledge of many cannoners.. The idea is that although the wall is still flat and can be used as a backboard, since Endstone has a lower blast resistance than Obsidian once successfully hit by a Hybrid Charge the endstone will break BEFORE the Obsidian does. This will leave a NON flat wall, a combination of air and Obsidian. Because of this for some non-experienced cannoners they will now find themselves having a much harder time using this wall as a backboard. They’ll experience the constant issue of having part of your sand and TnT entities fly through these open holes, meaning you can’t effectively create a Hybrid Charge to finish off the remaining (Obsidian) blocks, while parts of it remain hitting the backboard of the first wall. (You remember, in the Hybriding Section, I discussed due to their difference in positioning within the cannon, Sand/TnT receive varying projectile velocities and do not always fly together (on the same Y-axis). The only reason they meet is because they hit the walls (as a backboard), and then fall, landing inside each other. With the removal of this solid backboard it will be much more difficult to backboard both the sand and TnT together.) While there are ways to circumvent these types of walls through the use of a specific cannoning attachment called the guider (to be discussed later), it will in most cases stop any non-confident or advanced cannoneers and will most definitely if nothing cause the loss of momentum and motivation in a raid. This buys you time, and with time, you can save your base.

  • Pancake Walls:
The pancake wall design is rather simple. Essentially, you place a 3 long row of blocks, then skip a vertical space upwards, then repeat the process. Essentially doing this creates a set of horizontal “pancakes” that filter out sand/TnT entities based off their Y coordinate, further making it harder to effectively cannon the more inner walls of your base. The same mechanism is at play here as the anti-hybrid honeycomb walls; the goal is to break up the sand and TnT fired by the cannon. Although not the hardest walls to maneuver against, considering that it isn’t as difficult to make as some other wall variations the pancake wall design may be effective for helping defend your base. In short, it can be a cheaper alternative to an anti-hybriding filter made out of the vastly more expensive obsidian.

  • Triple Filters:
The third of our set of anti-stacking walls we’ll go over will be the “Triple Filters” concept. Triple Filters are a pain to make, but will skewer the hopes of most all but the more experienced raiders who are exceedingly comfortable with the modification of their cannon based on the scenario at hand. The concept of the Triple FIlter wall is fairly simple. The idea is to set up a number of horizontal lines of blocks (ideally Obsidian) raised to different heights so it is extremely difficult for the cannoneer to be able to effectively backboard against one of them and destroy the slabs placed beneath. These walls are extremely time consuming to build and water, so I won’t go into too much depth as they’re much more heavily customizable. You can if interested however find more information on YouTube.

  • Cuts (45s):
The final type method of “splitting” (sand and TnT entities) defense I’ll speak on are called “Cuts”, or “45’s”. This type of wall gets its name from its design. Essentially you’re making a 45 degree angle staircase of blocks, or “cuts”, making jagged protrusions moving outwards from the area you’re defending. The purpose of this is that there will never be a flat wall to backboard off of. Each block vertically adjacent to another is on a separate coordinate, either further back, or forwards from it’s predecessor. Because of this unique design, Sand and TnT are never able to easily backboard and fall together, never allowing for the stacking of sand and then Hybriding of the wall. Instead, both Sand and TnT will fall on different blocks based off where along the height of the jagged wall they hit. There are ways to bypass this type of wall, but you’ll need a larger and more capable cannon, one capable of charge-”fusion” (the extremely-close flightpath of TnT/Sand together in mid-air). Also, this type of wall is frequently used to prevent reverse cannons from attacking their base from bottom up, as opposed to the more popular method of top down. I won’t speak in too much detail on this yet, but I’ll cover reversing later in the guide.

All of the walls described in the above section are heavily customizable. There is no right or wrong way to make any of them, just as there is no guaranteed number of walls that if all utilized will render your base impenetrable. The goal instead is to weed out as many would-be raiders as not skilled enough to take down your base, or at least make it take as long as possible for those who are capable. If you were to spend time googling base defenses I don’t doubt you would find these, these under different names, better defenses, and better guides as to describing their value and purpose. As I asserted earlier, I wouldn’t call myself and expert, this guide just represents my effort to convey what I learned on to you in the interests we can become a more technologically advanced community as a whole on Desteria. Hopefully at least throughout this section of the guide you got an idea as to some of the options that were available to you when creating your base. If you’re still confused as to the design behind any of these ways, I’d recommend you scroll to the bottom of the guide. There you’ll find front and side screenshot examples of all of these walls.


Meme Lord
  • Overview
In the cannoning world, there are three main echelons of cannoning. The first of course, being the “noob” (3x7) cannon. A simple, small device, it doesn’t consist of much more than a few blocks of cobblestone, redstone, and TnT. It provides little control, inaccurate shots, and only small explosion power. While it will get the job done on a close range, unwatered wall, it won’t be able to handle much else. Once you’ve figured out how to make one of these cannons work, you can start really moving into the more popularly used cannons. The next step up from a noob cannon is a “Leinadarcher”, which I’ll speak on later. A Lein is capable of firing TnT farther, faster, and will more accuracy while also being able to fire multiple TnT at once, as well as even firing sand. The major downside of the Lein, however, is the velocity at which it fires it’s TnT and Sand. While better than that of the noob cannon, it is still extremely lacking in comparison to the destructive power of the larger cannons usually referred to as one-shot cannons.

The Leinadarcher is where you’re at when you consider yourself someone actually capable of cannoning. It can handle most any wall, the only downside effectively being that other larger and more powerful cannons will be able to create the same result, but faster. The Leinadarcher is the perfect transition-cannon for a newer user whom has begun to understand TnT and cannoning mechanics, but however is still intimidated by the massive multi-chunk cannons. For the purposes of this guide I’ll be speaking on each of the components of the Leinadarcher cannon as larger cannons essentially use the same technology, just on a vastly larger and more technical scale. If you manage to learn how and more importantly WHY the Leinadarcher functions, however, there’s nothing stopping you from applying the same concepts to a larger design and seeing success with as one-shot cannon. After having overviewed the Lein I will briefly speak on other variations and other larger more powerful cannons, but for the purpose of your understanding, think of the Lein as the drop off into the “deep end” of cannoning.

The Leinadarcher
  • Overview:
There are a handful of pieces that make the Leinadarcher produce its unique and effective results. In this section of the guide I’ll be going into detail on how each work, and why they’re necessary for the generation of the results that this cannon produces that’s made it so famous.

  • The Barrel:
The first piece of any cannon would be the barrel. The barrel is the tunnel that the TnT is launched through before exiting the cannon and being thrown into open air. The size and structure of the barrel define the velocity that the launched-TnT will have once having exited the cannon. To elaborate, the barrel is important because based off of the ceiling height you can adjust something to be discussed later called the ‘guider’, which allows you to manipulate the Y-level that each of your entities will leave the cannon at. This is the key to busting most anti-hybrid walls. The second piece I’ll speak on is the “Scatter”.

  • Scatter:
The “Scatter” is the TnT that will actually be launched out of the cannon towards the end of breaching the wall itself. The more scatter you have, the more destructive your shot will be. Behind the Scatter and outside the barrel will be the propulsion.

  • Propulsion:
These set of the dispensers will define the speed of the charge sent out of the cannon, and the distance it will capable of traveling before that velocity fails. The propulsion is the set of TnT that actually has the horsepower to fling the Scatter TnT out of the barrel and out into the open air. The more propulsion dispensers you use, the farther your scatter will fly. Farther back still, at the back of the cannon we have the Booster.

  • Booster:
The booster serves a simple purpose. It exists to push the propulsion as close to the sand and scatter as possible so that upon it (the propulsion’s) explosion, the scatter and sand will receive its full effect due to its close proximity to the explosion. Within it’s watered area, (water that extends down into the propulsions-spawn-point), the booster TnT will be the first set of TnT to explode within the cannon. It will act to push the propulsion TnT forwards (NOT upwards) towards a slab that will stop it’s advance where it then will explode, sending all contents currently within the barrel (sand and TnT) out into the open air.

  • Hammer and Slab-Busting Concept:
Farther forwards in the barrel we have a piston set under a set of dispenser stacked upwards. This is the key feature of the Leinadarcher and any more advanced cannon: the Hammer. A hammer is a second set of dispensers, usually expanding vertically upwards out of the cannon, which spawn TnT that then falls before being pushed into the barrel of the cannon by a piston shortly before the propulsion TnT explodes, flinging all contents within the barrel (now including the hammer TnT) outwards. The beauty of the hammer is that due to it’s timing and it’s height within the barrel the hammer TnT will fly ABOVE the Scatter TnT out of the barrel and will explode before the Scatter TnT hopefully around the time the combined TnT package (including sand) reaches the wall it is aiming for, after having used it as a backboard (another reason why backboards are extremely necessary when cannoning). Once the Hammer and Scatter reach the wall, or whenever the Hammer TnT’s delay is up, the Hammer will explode while still vertically above the Scatter TnT, launching said-Scatter directly downwards. It is through the use of this mechanic that you’re able to do what is referred to as “Slab Busting”. You’re able to use a Hammer to fire your Scatter TnT down into the trench of an enemy base and destroy the slabs at the bottom. Having done this, you’ll now be able to stack your sand. Once you feel comfortable with the Hammer, you can actually begin to play with a concept called “Reversing”. Reversing is the adjustment of the height of the block at which the TnT from your Hammer falls down to before being pushed into your barrel and fired out of your cannon. If you were to make it so that your Hammer flies lower out of your barrel than your Scatter, what you’d be able to do would be to instead of hammering your Scatter downwards, would be to fire it upwards, hitting any non-watered wall above the backboard which you’d be using. This can be useful if you need to advance vertically upwards into another floor of a given base you’re raiding once you’re already inside, or if you want to hit a base from underneath it instead of penetrating it horizontally meaning you must breach each of its walls.

  • Re-Aligner:
In most advanced cannons you will see a number of pistons (or dispensers aiming to accomplish the same purpose) along the side of their barrel, not actually looking to be doing anything. The purpose of these pistons are to try and work-around a glitch in the actual coding of Minecraft. For a reason I don’t understand, during the coding of Minecraft and it’s mechanics, for whatever reason, when shooting East-West or West-East you will experience more issues than North-South or South-North. To fix these issues, essentially you smash your TnT with a piston (or an explosion from TnT), and it “re-aligns” the TnT into a more favorable position hopefully counteracting the coding glitch. In all honesty, I don’t understand why this effect is necessary or occurs, but I’d recommend the use of a re-aligner just to be safe when cannoning. Beyond countering the East-West issue, realigners can also be used for other purposes. In Minecraft, TnT doesn’t actually take up a full 1x1x1 space, it just very nearly does, so because of this you can choose to align your TnT to either the left or right sides of a given block. By using this technology in more advanced cannons you can make what are called left and right shooting cannons as well as other more advanced tech.

  • Quick-Pulse:
In Minecraft, and on Minecraft servers, the speed and time it takes for redstone signals to be transmitted from point A to point B may vary based on a number of factors, including lag. Partially to counteract this issue, and to generalize the effectiveness of the exact redstone timings used in the Leinadarcher cannon, the creator uses a set of pistons called “pulse-checkers”, which serve no real purpose other than to “clean up” the redstone signal. They make it quicker, thinner, and more efficient. This resulting in a faster ticking of a piston, and a more reactive as opposed to sluggish signal. If this concept doesn’t make sense to you that is alright, just understand it is simply a mechanism towards making your cannon a bit more efficient as it allows you to set pistons to pulse towards quicker.

  • Guider:
Next is the Guider. The guider is a very small but extremely important part of the barrel of your cannon. The guider is the three(+) blocks along the roof of your cannon above where the Scatter and Sand resides. The height of said-guider defines the height that the TnT and Sand will fly out of the cannon at. Based off whether you’re using no blocks, a full block, or a half slab, you’ll be shifting the height of your package by around 1~ block. This idea is extremely important if you’re getting stuck on a piece of an Anti-Hybrid or Filter Wall and your TnT/Sand package is being split upon reaching the wall (you don’t have an effective backboard). By adjusting the height that your TnT and Sand leaves the barrel of your cannon by tweaking the guider, you can reprogram your cannon to output TnT and Sand in such a way that allows you to bypass debris left over by filter walls that would otherwise be stopping the progress of your raid.

  • Sand-Stacker:
Finally, you have the sand-mechanism of the Leinadarcher. This is a rather simple contraption that essentially catches falling (entity) sand in cobwebs, and holds it there until a piston pushes into the Cobweb(and the sand held within), breaking the Cobweb and forcing the (still falling; entity) sand out into the barrel where it is then fired out of the cannon by the explosion of the propulsion. The key to this mechanism is it’s timing. The sand must be in mid air (falling; still an entity within the cobweb) when the propulsion goes off, or it will fall to the floor of your barrel and will likely cause an explosion in your cannon as it will have become a block once again and no longer will be affected by gravity (the explosion of the propulsion). Your sand stack will work in conjunction with your hammer to be fired down into the trench of the defending base where it will then stack upwards.

  • Conclusion:
Although the Leinadarcher may seem complicated, stick with it. You’ll find some picture-guides at the end of this written piece showing the different pieces of a Leinadarcher and my personal advice on how to most effectively utilize them and their features. My best advice for personal improvement with its use would be to travel to YouTube, find a guide as to its creation, make one for yourself, and begin to practice with it. Although you won’t feel comfortable at first the more you use it and the more walls you successfully bust through, you’ll eventually begin to get a feel for the cannon and hopefully begin to learn some of the tricks of cannoning.

Advanced Cannoning

Although I will briefly introduce each of these technologies I want to make it clear that I can’t say I’ve personally used each of them before. In the case of left and right shooting technology for example, although I understand the basics of why it works, I can’t say I’ve successfully used this cannon myself. If you want more information on any of these technologies you should search YouTube or another server’s Forums for more in-depth information rather than trusting my explanations wholeheartedly.

  • Reversing:
Touched on above, this is a more simple concept. It essentially involves the adjustment of the Hammer’s height in your barrel (and the additional of a small mini-roof in the barrel) making the Hammer TnT fall respectively above or below the Scatter, which then after the Hammer has exploded will send the Scatter flying in the respective direction (up or down) you previously designated based off your placement of the compartment for the Hammer TnT. Reversing refers to the “below” position of your Hammer. Think of it as hammering up and hammering down. If your hammer is below scatter, the scatter will travel up. If your hammer is above the scatter (usually the default position), the scatter will be pushed downwards by the explosion of the hammer TnT. This technically is valuable as it can allow you to breach a base from the underside as opposed to directly via a horizontal cannon path.

  • Sand-Plate Technology:
A sand plate is a way to compress or condense a larger amount of sand into a more confined area effectively allowing you to fire more sand than you otherwise would be able to. The idea is, rather than having sand fall directly next to your barrel, and being pushed out of a cobweb (via a piston), instead the sand is set up in a different contraption farther away from your barrel and after having fallen into its respective cobwebs (being loaded), a unique sand-plate-booster will set off TnT launching the sand into the barrel, where it then hits the far wall OF the barrel, and before landing, the timing of the actual cannon’s propulsion will have gone off launching the sand (at this point still an entity in the air falling towards the ground of the barrel) again, this time out of the barrel of the cannon towards it’s target location. This technology is usually found in one-shot cannons.

  • One-Shot Cannons:
The more advanced cannons, called “One-Shot” cannons, get their name by being more resource intensive but more effective at accomplishing many goals in a single shot. With a normal cannon you would need to fire at LEAST three shots to get into the enemy base. One to slab bust, another to stack sand, and a final shot to Hybrid the wall itself, landing your charge atop the sand stack, opening the base. Through the use of massive and more complicated redstone circuitry, a One-Shot cannon lives up it’s name. With the press of a single button (one time) it is able to destroy slabs at the bottom of a trench, stack up to 255 sand, and then place a Hybrid Charge on top of this sand stack. Effectively, you’re able to bust a wall-per-shot with this cannon.

  • Left and Right Shooting:
From what I understand, this mechanism works off a piece of the coding which controls lit-TnT in Minecraft. Normal TnT, as any other block, takes up a full 1x1x1 set’s worth of space in the Minecraft world. Supposedly however, lit-TnT takes up instead of 1.0, .98 of a block. Because of this, you actually have about .02 of a block’s worth of wiggle room with a lit TnT entity, allowing you to actually set it off-center (by 0.1 of a block to either side) from the rest of the TnT you’ll be firing. You’d create this offset by pushing lit TnT into a wall with a piston within a one block wide barrel. This would shove it directly into the opposing wall of the barrel (away from the piston), and you’ll be able to create a side shooting cannon. The idea is because this TnT has been intentionally offset to the side, you can have it act as a hammer that propulses the rest of your payload horizontally to the opposite side of the wall it is hitting. This same effect is replicable to push your TnT to the opposite side, creating the explosion that sends your Scatter flying in the opposite direction. This attachment would reside in the barrel. The value of this technology is immense if used correctly. The idea would be, you’d line your cannon up facing North such that you’re shooting at the walls protruding out EAST of the defending faction’s base. If they haven’t set up wraps or pillar walls to defend their base, you’ll be able to shoot directly into the short-side of the innermost wall of the defending base, before then using IT as a backboard to left-shoot into the base itself. By utilizing this technique on an inappropriately defended base, you can bypass up to 159 walls. The way to defend against it would be through the utilization of the aforementioned wraps, or pillar walls. Wraps refer to walls that wrap fully around your base including the corners as opposed to only being wide enough to protect the physical structure of your base. Pillars refer to one block pillars erected up into the sky to act as walls FOR your walls, to protect them against being left or rightied into.

  • Floating Barrel Cannons:
These one-shot cannons allow you to fire your payload as near to the sky limit at 255 as possible by placing the roof of your barrel at this height and essentially firing your entire payload out from this Y-level as opposed to the floor of your cannon box. This technology is used to raid bases with spawners at skylimit that would otherwise be more accessible by other cannons.

  • Nukers
Nuke cannons are a variation of a one-shot cannon that allow much more destruction per shot than a single 5x5~ hole. By adjusting the order of entities dispensed by the cannon and coordinating this release of TnT from dispensers with sand falling, you’re able to create the effect of multiple hybrid charges going off within your one sand stack. The end result is a more fully destroyed wall. You can customize this nuke effect to remove entire vertical or horizontal sections of walls, or in the case of pseudo-nukers, you can intentionally destroy massive chunks of the wall while leaving some parts intact so that repair is much more difficult. A more complication version of this technology would be a wall remover that outright destroys an entire wall. Period.

  • Auto and Semi-automatic cannons
This technically would be a cannon that is designed to reload and re-fire itself automatically, in the case of auto cannons. Semiautomatic cannons don’t reload and refire automatically, rather per one button press you’re able to fire off more than one payload per shot allowing you to raid more walls in less time. These cannons involve much more complicated and larger sand compressors and more involved redstone timings.

NOTE: Before firing off a cannon of this variety I would recommend checking out Desteria's rule page. There are regulations against auto-cannons.

  • Adjustable X/Y/Z Barrel Cannons
By messing with the way that TnT is rendered in the code of Minecraft, and specifically playing with the fact that it’s Y-value is rendered before it’s X or Z value, you can actually create cannons and can create holes in different places on the defending faction’s wall without moving the cannon itself. This is extremely high tech cannoning and should be reserved for all but those interested in reading into the code of Minecraft itself.

  • Mid Air Cannons
These cannons are designed to allow you to hybrid walls without needing to sand stack or use a backboard. This is my understanding, anyways. Whereas every other cannon on this list I’ve used or seen used in person, I know nothing about these cannons or their functionality other than that they exist.

  • Cannon Boxes:
Now that you hopefully have a bit more of an insight into how to defend yourself against cannons, and how to set up cannons of your own, there is one more concept I’d like to share with you for how to handle yourself during a raid. Ideally, you’ll be able to claim the land you’re building your cannon on, so it cannot be easily destroyed by enemy defenders, and you’re able to effectively cannon the enemy base. As an additional method of protection while cannoning I’d highly advise setting up what’s called a “cannon box”. This is simply a boxed in area around your cannon, designed to keep allies in, and keep your cannon safe from those whom would wish to destroy it. To further protect yourself, while you have one or two users working on your cannon I’d recommend you set at least one or two additional faction members or allies working to water and slab your cannon box with the goal in mind to keep it safe from any potential counter-cannon-cannons. (REMEMBER, open up a small hole for your cannon to actually fire out of BEFORE you shoot your cannon. You don’t want to effectively barrel-stuff yourself within your cannon box. You can set up an automated piston door to accomplish this goal and wire it up to the cannon itself, or you can break a hole manually each time. I recommend the prior.)


Hopefully you found at least some of the content in this guide useful, as I said, below you will be able to find a number of screenshots as promised earlier in the guide that will hopefully give you some examples regarding how to use your own Leinadarcher, or maybe perhaps create some defensive structures of your own to better protect your base.

Defensive Structures: Images

Cannon Components: Images

Parting Words
  • Conclusion:
If you genuinely took the time to read the entirety of this guide you must be some kind of a literary warrior. Clearly the amount of information included in this guide is substantial, so respect to you if you made it all the way through. Although you may at this point feel lost, or feel as though potentially you learned nothing, I both apologize for the latter and would advise those feeling the previous that you stick with it. Nobody learned this type of science and technology over night. Your cannons will implode. Your bases will be raided. But, from this, you’ll learn and you won’t make the same mistakes again. You have the power to take your knowledge and experience into your own hands. YOU have the potential to become great, all you have to do is set your mind to it. I hope this guide at least helped you take the first step along your own personal path to greatness.

I’ve lost count for which iteration of the guide this is, but I hope you’ve found it to be useful. If you have any questions, or would like to talk to myself in person, feel free to look for me on the server, on Discord, message me on the Forums privately, or leave a comment on this thread with your feelings, opinions, or suggestions for on the guide. Anything you feel may make the guide a more complete resource for newer users, or anyone looking to learn would be more than welcomed. The more content we can accumulate here, the better.

Thanks for reading, and I hope this helped you learn something new.
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